Sunday 18 May
After a slow start to the day, we had a very lazy Sunday. I caught up with the blog and did some hotel reviews on the computer and Lynn read. We ate lunch outside the tent and went to the campsite restaurant for dinner. During the day, it clouded over and the sea got quite rough, we could hear it from the tent.
Tuesday, May 27, 2014
Central Corsica
Saturday 17 May
We woke up fairly early again, I guess it is early to bed, early to rise whilst camping!
We bought bread from the campsite shop which opened for the season today. After eating, we headed out in the car searching for the seemingly elusive Corsican Nuthatch, Wallcreeper and Lammergeier in the mountains.
After a brief stop in Ghisonaccia for the post office and bank, we headed inland on the D344 heading toward the village of St Antoine. The road was dead straight all the way to the village but liberally peppered with speed humps which seem to infest the island everywhere you go. This may be a reflection on the driving style of the locals who seem to drive over the speed humps without slowing down anyway. No-one takes any notice of the 30kph speed limits!
From St Antoine, the read got rather twisty and started climbing into the mountains. Soon, the cliff walls started closing in and we entered the Defile de l'Inzecca. This gorge is very scenic with the river tumbling down below and sheer cliffs either side of the road. None of the birds we were looking for were seen here!
The road went through a tunnel and then the valley opened out again. After Sampolo, the cliffs closed in again as we climbed up to the village of Ghisoni. We joined another road here, the D69 and stared climbing again in amongst pine trees. We stopped at a bend in the road to look for birds, but only found Spotted Flycatchers. Eventually the road topped out at the Col de Sorba at 1311M, surrounded by mountains well over 2000M high.
From here, the road dropped down to join the main road, the N193, at Col de la Serra at a lowly height of 807M! The views from the large layby just north of the road junction was a huge panorama along the Vecchio valley. The railway line between Ajaccio and Bastia passes through here and it must be a very scenic journey as the line winds around the moutains. Still no birds!
The main road then dropped down, passing through Venaco before another pass, the Col de Bellagranajo at 723M. From there it was only about 10km to the town, or is it a city, of Corte/Corti.
Most of the places in Corsica have French placenames as well as Corsican placenames, I believe that Corsican is a version of Ligurian, spoken in Genoa. This is because between the Genoans and Pisans ruled Corsica until the late 18th century. Eventually, it became part of France, and to this date is department 2A, Corse du Sud and 2B, Haute Corse. The local separatist movement, the FLNC (The National Liberation Front of Corsica), is quite active and has therefore spray-painted over the French placenames on most signposts. This sometimes makes it difficult to navigate using a French map!
Another hazard of driving in Corsica is that farm animals graze where they want, which includes on the roads, or roadsides. So far, we have encountered innumerable cows and a large flock of goats. Today, we met a small group of cows which include a rather large bull who gave us a grumpy gaze as we slowly inched past.
We managed to park easily, close to the centre of Corte and walked to the mains square, dominated by a statue of Pasquale Paoli, who led the liberation movement in the 18th century. We found a sunny restaurant in the square and enjoyed an excellent dinner. I had a green salad followed by Canelloni Briocciu washed down with beer. Lynn had a salad and half a cow for her lunch! It was certainly a huge entrecote steak anyway. Briocciu is a pungent local sheeps cheese, one of our guidebooks describes it as 'eye-wateringly strong', but I didn't find it so. It is sold as a soft cheese, like fromage frais and also in harder, more mature 'lumps' of cheese.
After lunch, we followed the D623 up the Gorge de la Restonica. This 15km long, no-through road is very narrow and much of the road is unprotected from the gorge below; it is probably not for the faint-hearted driver. Corte lies at 440M above sea-level and the Restonica road fairly rapidly climbs to 1260M. There are places to pull off the road for the the first 11km, but the final 4km is a no stopping zone with just a few passing places. About a kilometre from the end of the road, in May 2014, the road is blocked by a huge landslide which has not only taken out the road, but the bridge crossing the Restonica river too. There is plenty of parking just before the landslide which appears to be free. Supposedly, at the end of the road is the Bergeries de Grotelle and a paying carpark (!) and a snack-bar. The snack-bar is advertised as being a 20 minute walk along rough tracks from the landslide.
The road is very beautiful with loads of wild Hellebores and Cyclamens growing everywhere. The wild flowers were very beautiful but no birds of note except for Coal Tits. We even scoured the rock faces for Mouflons, but no luck.
Once back in Corte, we decided to head back to the coast and took the main road the N200 and drove the 30km down to Aleria. The road is quite a fast road and had little traffic on it. Once back on the coast, we joined the N198 for the 15km journey back to Ghisonaccia.
After a brief stop at the supermarket to buy bread for tea, we returned to the campsite and sat outside until almost 9-o-clock.
We woke up fairly early again, I guess it is early to bed, early to rise whilst camping!
We bought bread from the campsite shop which opened for the season today. After eating, we headed out in the car searching for the seemingly elusive Corsican Nuthatch, Wallcreeper and Lammergeier in the mountains.
After a brief stop in Ghisonaccia for the post office and bank, we headed inland on the D344 heading toward the village of St Antoine. The road was dead straight all the way to the village but liberally peppered with speed humps which seem to infest the island everywhere you go. This may be a reflection on the driving style of the locals who seem to drive over the speed humps without slowing down anyway. No-one takes any notice of the 30kph speed limits!
From St Antoine, the read got rather twisty and started climbing into the mountains. Soon, the cliff walls started closing in and we entered the Defile de l'Inzecca. This gorge is very scenic with the river tumbling down below and sheer cliffs either side of the road. None of the birds we were looking for were seen here!
The road went through a tunnel and then the valley opened out again. After Sampolo, the cliffs closed in again as we climbed up to the village of Ghisoni. We joined another road here, the D69 and stared climbing again in amongst pine trees. We stopped at a bend in the road to look for birds, but only found Spotted Flycatchers. Eventually the road topped out at the Col de Sorba at 1311M, surrounded by mountains well over 2000M high.
From here, the road dropped down to join the main road, the N193, at Col de la Serra at a lowly height of 807M! The views from the large layby just north of the road junction was a huge panorama along the Vecchio valley. The railway line between Ajaccio and Bastia passes through here and it must be a very scenic journey as the line winds around the moutains. Still no birds!
The main road then dropped down, passing through Venaco before another pass, the Col de Bellagranajo at 723M. From there it was only about 10km to the town, or is it a city, of Corte/Corti.
Most of the places in Corsica have French placenames as well as Corsican placenames, I believe that Corsican is a version of Ligurian, spoken in Genoa. This is because between the Genoans and Pisans ruled Corsica until the late 18th century. Eventually, it became part of France, and to this date is department 2A, Corse du Sud and 2B, Haute Corse. The local separatist movement, the FLNC (The National Liberation Front of Corsica), is quite active and has therefore spray-painted over the French placenames on most signposts. This sometimes makes it difficult to navigate using a French map!
Another hazard of driving in Corsica is that farm animals graze where they want, which includes on the roads, or roadsides. So far, we have encountered innumerable cows and a large flock of goats. Today, we met a small group of cows which include a rather large bull who gave us a grumpy gaze as we slowly inched past.
We managed to park easily, close to the centre of Corte and walked to the mains square, dominated by a statue of Pasquale Paoli, who led the liberation movement in the 18th century. We found a sunny restaurant in the square and enjoyed an excellent dinner. I had a green salad followed by Canelloni Briocciu washed down with beer. Lynn had a salad and half a cow for her lunch! It was certainly a huge entrecote steak anyway. Briocciu is a pungent local sheeps cheese, one of our guidebooks describes it as 'eye-wateringly strong', but I didn't find it so. It is sold as a soft cheese, like fromage frais and also in harder, more mature 'lumps' of cheese.
After lunch, we followed the D623 up the Gorge de la Restonica. This 15km long, no-through road is very narrow and much of the road is unprotected from the gorge below; it is probably not for the faint-hearted driver. Corte lies at 440M above sea-level and the Restonica road fairly rapidly climbs to 1260M. There are places to pull off the road for the the first 11km, but the final 4km is a no stopping zone with just a few passing places. About a kilometre from the end of the road, in May 2014, the road is blocked by a huge landslide which has not only taken out the road, but the bridge crossing the Restonica river too. There is plenty of parking just before the landslide which appears to be free. Supposedly, at the end of the road is the Bergeries de Grotelle and a paying carpark (!) and a snack-bar. The snack-bar is advertised as being a 20 minute walk along rough tracks from the landslide.
The road is very beautiful with loads of wild Hellebores and Cyclamens growing everywhere. The wild flowers were very beautiful but no birds of note except for Coal Tits. We even scoured the rock faces for Mouflons, but no luck.
Once back in Corte, we decided to head back to the coast and took the main road the N200 and drove the 30km down to Aleria. The road is quite a fast road and had little traffic on it. Once back on the coast, we joined the N198 for the 15km journey back to Ghisonaccia.
After a brief stop at the supermarket to buy bread for tea, we returned to the campsite and sat outside until almost 9-o-clock.
Making the most of the weather
Friday 16 May
Having studied the weather forecast, we decided that we would have a lazy day at the campsite today.
We had to drive out to the local SPAR shop to buy bread for breakfast, the shop is about a kilometre away. We sat outside and ate breakfast and then organised ourselves to spend the day at the "Espace Bien Etre" or Balneo. This cost us the princely sum of 5 Euros each.
We think that this facility on the campsite is a new addition this year and consists of an irregularly shaped pool with lots of water jets. There are various bubbling water beds, bubble pools and meandering streams and bridges to swim in and sun loungers and sun shades around the pool area. The water was clearly heated too which made it rather pleasant.
The campsite also boasts a small spa with Hamman and Sauna - we subsequently found out it was 25 Euros for a brief visit - not good value for money.
At lunchtime, we returned to the tent to eat and then returned to the Balneo for the afternoon. The weather was mainly sunny and warm until mid-afternoon when is started to cloud over and a cool breeze picked up.
At around 4-o-clock, we returned to the tent for a drink and got changed out of our swimming things.
After lazing around for a couple of hours and catching up with the travel diary which may become a blog (you will know this by now), we headed up to the beach and the campsite restaurant.
The menu was fairly extensive, although the waiter explained that there were 4 or 5 things not available. Pizzas were definitely available from a wood-burning oven - yippee! The pizzas were delicious, thin base, nice and crusty and wonderful traditional toppings. We also enjoyed the dance troupe practising for their summer routine on the outdoor stage. Luckily for us, the entertainment programme doesn't start until the 24th May - after we have left!
The other entertainment was the huge numbers of swallows flying in and out of the restaurant which is open to the elements. I'm sure when architect designed this building, which is very nice, he or she had no idea it would have become colonised by swallows in the summer. You just have to hope that nothing drops into your dinner....
Having studied the weather forecast, we decided that we would have a lazy day at the campsite today.
We had to drive out to the local SPAR shop to buy bread for breakfast, the shop is about a kilometre away. We sat outside and ate breakfast and then organised ourselves to spend the day at the "Espace Bien Etre" or Balneo. This cost us the princely sum of 5 Euros each.
We think that this facility on the campsite is a new addition this year and consists of an irregularly shaped pool with lots of water jets. There are various bubbling water beds, bubble pools and meandering streams and bridges to swim in and sun loungers and sun shades around the pool area. The water was clearly heated too which made it rather pleasant.
The campsite also boasts a small spa with Hamman and Sauna - we subsequently found out it was 25 Euros for a brief visit - not good value for money.
At lunchtime, we returned to the tent to eat and then returned to the Balneo for the afternoon. The weather was mainly sunny and warm until mid-afternoon when is started to cloud over and a cool breeze picked up.
At around 4-o-clock, we returned to the tent for a drink and got changed out of our swimming things.
After lazing around for a couple of hours and catching up with the travel diary which may become a blog (you will know this by now), we headed up to the beach and the campsite restaurant.
The menu was fairly extensive, although the waiter explained that there were 4 or 5 things not available. Pizzas were definitely available from a wood-burning oven - yippee! The pizzas were delicious, thin base, nice and crusty and wonderful traditional toppings. We also enjoyed the dance troupe practising for their summer routine on the outdoor stage. Luckily for us, the entertainment programme doesn't start until the 24th May - after we have left!
The other entertainment was the huge numbers of swallows flying in and out of the restaurant which is open to the elements. I'm sure when architect designed this building, which is very nice, he or she had no idea it would have become colonised by swallows in the summer. You just have to hope that nothing drops into your dinner....
Heading north up the east coast of Corsica
Thursday 15 May
Bonifacio - Ghisonaccia
We were awoken just before 7am by bells ringing in the close vicinity of the tent. On investigation, it turned out to be a flock of sheep wandering around the campsite.
Since we were awake, we got up, showered, ate some breakfast and packed up the tent and loaded the car. There was a slight breeze, but it was sunny and relatively warm.
From the campsite, we returned to the main road the N198 via the smaller D60. Once on the main road, we crossed the impressively named Col de Permentile at a very unimpressive altitude of 45 metres! After this, we got a move on as the road is very straight for miles.
We made a detour to look at the beach at Santa Guilia just south of Port-Vecchio. It is a beautiful cove with azure water surrounded by white and beach - it looked very inviting, but as it was before 9 in the morning we decided to carry on.
Turning into Porto-Vecchio, we initially followed signs to the port, but it wasn't very impressive so continued into the old town above the more modern port. We were lucky and found a parking place very close to the town centre and from there walked in to the main town square. It is very pretty and we found a cafe to sit and enjoy a coffee - well I did! There are many small shops selling local produce and the wonderful smells coming from some of them wafted out onto the street tantalizing the nose. Mostly this was from the wonderful smoked meats hanging from the ceilings of the shops. Charcuterie is a speciality of Corsica.
Moving on from Porto-Vecchio, we continued on up the main road passing through a number of small villages and the slightly larger Solenzara before passing the French Air Force base at Travo. Not long after this, we arrived in the edge of Ghisonaccia, a fairly non-descript modern town. Here, we turned off onto the 'Rue de la Mer'and after 5 km found outselves outside the Arinella Bianca campsite.
This campsite turned out to be a very well kept and rather upmarket place, but the pitches looked good and we found one we liked and moved in!
After erecting the tent and having lunch, I had a wander around the campsite and found the sandy beach, which was almost deserted, the bar, the restaurant and 'Well-being' facility which will be described tomorrow. There was also a Sauna and Hamman which hadn't opened for the season. I also found the shop which will open on Saturday 17 May.
We then drove back into Ghisonaccia and found a large LeClerc and did a bit of shopping for an evening meal.
Although it was less windy than the last couple of day and we were able to sit outside for a while using the wifi internet, it was certainly cool by the time we went to bed.
Bonifacio - Ghisonaccia
We were awoken just before 7am by bells ringing in the close vicinity of the tent. On investigation, it turned out to be a flock of sheep wandering around the campsite.
Since we were awake, we got up, showered, ate some breakfast and packed up the tent and loaded the car. There was a slight breeze, but it was sunny and relatively warm.
From the campsite, we returned to the main road the N198 via the smaller D60. Once on the main road, we crossed the impressively named Col de Permentile at a very unimpressive altitude of 45 metres! After this, we got a move on as the road is very straight for miles.
We made a detour to look at the beach at Santa Guilia just south of Port-Vecchio. It is a beautiful cove with azure water surrounded by white and beach - it looked very inviting, but as it was before 9 in the morning we decided to carry on.
Turning into Porto-Vecchio, we initially followed signs to the port, but it wasn't very impressive so continued into the old town above the more modern port. We were lucky and found a parking place very close to the town centre and from there walked in to the main town square. It is very pretty and we found a cafe to sit and enjoy a coffee - well I did! There are many small shops selling local produce and the wonderful smells coming from some of them wafted out onto the street tantalizing the nose. Mostly this was from the wonderful smoked meats hanging from the ceilings of the shops. Charcuterie is a speciality of Corsica.
Moving on from Porto-Vecchio, we continued on up the main road passing through a number of small villages and the slightly larger Solenzara before passing the French Air Force base at Travo. Not long after this, we arrived in the edge of Ghisonaccia, a fairly non-descript modern town. Here, we turned off onto the 'Rue de la Mer'and after 5 km found outselves outside the Arinella Bianca campsite.
This campsite turned out to be a very well kept and rather upmarket place, but the pitches looked good and we found one we liked and moved in!
After erecting the tent and having lunch, I had a wander around the campsite and found the sandy beach, which was almost deserted, the bar, the restaurant and 'Well-being' facility which will be described tomorrow. There was also a Sauna and Hamman which hadn't opened for the season. I also found the shop which will open on Saturday 17 May.
We then drove back into Ghisonaccia and found a large LeClerc and did a bit of shopping for an evening meal.
Although it was less windy than the last couple of day and we were able to sit outside for a while using the wifi internet, it was certainly cool by the time we went to bed.
Bonifacio
Wednesday 14 May
The wind died down overnight and we awoke to sunny skies and it was warm enough to sit outside. We hadn't organised any bread for breakfast, so after showering, we drove into Bonifacio and found a car park up near the citadel and old town.
We walked into the old town, about 5 minutes away, and eventually found a cafe that was selling 'pain au chocolat' and went in for breakfast. The entrance was on a small street, but we walked back though the cafe to an enclosed balcony that had been constructed overlooking the sea below. When I say below, I mean directly below as the balcony was just hung on the outside wall of the cafe perched onto the top of the cliff. An interesting view and but not one for those of a nervous disposition!
Following this, Lynn when for a slow wander back to the car, whilst I went exploring the old town. It is a maze of small streets and minuscule squares with churches sprouting out of nowhere. I found very the impressive main gate, complete with drawbridge and massive doors and fortifications, the view from here down to the port is very impressive. From the there, I climbed up onto the ramparts which cost 2.50 Euros for even more amazing view. Near the top of the highest tower was an opening in wall which led down steep steps to the inside of the tower. Here had been arranged a number of diaramas describing the history of the town.
Back out in the sunshine, I followed the streets back out to the citadel which was occupied by the French Foreign Legion Parachute Regiment until they moved to Calvi in 1966. I found Lynn wandering along the road enjoying the view over the harbour. I continue on right out to the furthest point and looked down to the very narrow entrance to Bonifacio harbour and the lighthouse on the opposite headland.
We headed back in the car to the carpark down by the harbour and settled on a restaurant for lunch. We enjoyed Moules Frites and a small beer sitting in the sunshine by the port and all for 12 Euros each - not bad. We enjoyed watching the endless streams of coach trippers being led around by their guide. First onto a boat for a sightseeing tour of the cliffs and then herded off to get on the 'Noddy Train' to be delivered to the old town high about the harbour!
Back on the campsite, we sat around in the sunshine for a while, it was much more pleasant now that the wind had dropped.
Later in the afternoon, we got back in the car and headed up the coast to the Baie de Rondinara. This is a picture perfect shallow bay surrounded by sandy beaches. We settled down to sit on a blanket for an hour. There were quite a few people there, but it wasn't the least crowded but we imagine that in the season, it would be quite busy. The car-park normally charges for parking too.
When we returned to the campsite, we found that a huge motorhome had parked almost in front of our tent - we were most unimpressed. The vehicle wasn't on a marked pitch and certainly made us feel somewhat hemmed in.
The wind died down overnight and we awoke to sunny skies and it was warm enough to sit outside. We hadn't organised any bread for breakfast, so after showering, we drove into Bonifacio and found a car park up near the citadel and old town.
We walked into the old town, about 5 minutes away, and eventually found a cafe that was selling 'pain au chocolat' and went in for breakfast. The entrance was on a small street, but we walked back though the cafe to an enclosed balcony that had been constructed overlooking the sea below. When I say below, I mean directly below as the balcony was just hung on the outside wall of the cafe perched onto the top of the cliff. An interesting view and but not one for those of a nervous disposition!
Following this, Lynn when for a slow wander back to the car, whilst I went exploring the old town. It is a maze of small streets and minuscule squares with churches sprouting out of nowhere. I found very the impressive main gate, complete with drawbridge and massive doors and fortifications, the view from here down to the port is very impressive. From the there, I climbed up onto the ramparts which cost 2.50 Euros for even more amazing view. Near the top of the highest tower was an opening in wall which led down steep steps to the inside of the tower. Here had been arranged a number of diaramas describing the history of the town.
Back out in the sunshine, I followed the streets back out to the citadel which was occupied by the French Foreign Legion Parachute Regiment until they moved to Calvi in 1966. I found Lynn wandering along the road enjoying the view over the harbour. I continue on right out to the furthest point and looked down to the very narrow entrance to Bonifacio harbour and the lighthouse on the opposite headland.
We headed back in the car to the carpark down by the harbour and settled on a restaurant for lunch. We enjoyed Moules Frites and a small beer sitting in the sunshine by the port and all for 12 Euros each - not bad. We enjoyed watching the endless streams of coach trippers being led around by their guide. First onto a boat for a sightseeing tour of the cliffs and then herded off to get on the 'Noddy Train' to be delivered to the old town high about the harbour!
Back on the campsite, we sat around in the sunshine for a while, it was much more pleasant now that the wind had dropped.
Later in the afternoon, we got back in the car and headed up the coast to the Baie de Rondinara. This is a picture perfect shallow bay surrounded by sandy beaches. We settled down to sit on a blanket for an hour. There were quite a few people there, but it wasn't the least crowded but we imagine that in the season, it would be quite busy. The car-park normally charges for parking too.
When we returned to the campsite, we found that a huge motorhome had parked almost in front of our tent - we were most unimpressed. The vehicle wasn't on a marked pitch and certainly made us feel somewhat hemmed in.
Monday, May 26, 2014
To the Southern tip of Corsica
Tuesday 13 May
We were awake before seven and quickly packed up the tent and drove off the site. We stopped at the shops just outside and bought some 'pain au raisin'. Lynn was most unhappy with hers as she thought it was more like a cake.
From the campsite, we joined the N196, the main road heading south down the middle of the island heading towards Bonifacio. The road was fairly busy and immediately started climbing up into the mountains. Today, there seemed to be road-works in just about every village we passed through, the first being Suarella. Fortunately, the road had overtaking lanes on the uphill stretches so it wasn't too bad a trip to the top of the Col de St-Georges at 747M.
From here the road headed back down to the Taravo river valley before climbing again through Petreto-Bicchisano and on to the Col de Celaccia at 582M. From here, it was all downhill to the coastal town of Propriano which we didn't stop at.
Continuing over another pass, Col de Sta. Guilla at 80M we then followed the Rizzanese river for a while before the climb up to Sartene high up in the hills. Sartene is famous locally for its wine.
The road headed south through the mountains until it got down to the Gulf of Roccapina where we got views over the sea again before heading back inland through Pianottoli-Caldarello and back to the coast.
We'd noticed that although it was very sunny, the wind was getting up and we really noticed it when we stopped for a brief walk near Tonnara. The bay was beautiful, but the wind was very strong and quite cool.
We bypassed Bonifacio on the D60 and continued until it turned right and became the D58. Not far down here we found a campsite. We had a wander around, and then after asking, set up the tent on a pitch under some trees but with a view. We had great trouble getting any pegs in, and the campsite then told us the pitch was built on aa concrete slab! We moved one site over and successfully erected the tent.
Having done this, it was clearly lunchtime, so we headed into the port at Bonifacio. By now the wind was really strong and quite unpleasant, but we managed to find a restaurant where we could sit outside out of the wind. For a change, we had their 'special' which was cheeseburger in a panini with a glass of Heinekin!
We had a brief wander around and ate an icecream before returning to the campsite. We sat outside for a while, but it was very windy, in the sun it was warm enough, but out of the sun in the wind it felt quite chilly.
After dinner, we drove down to the coast to see if we could see any evening birdlife. We followed a very small road described as dangerous in the Rough Guide, towards a lighthouse on Capo Pertusato. The road went between some fortifications and we stopped in an old French fort which was derelict. We had a wander around but no birds to be seen. We carried on to the lighthouse then turned back into town.
Next, we followed the signs to Plage de Piantarella, this road had some very nice houses and also an exclusive golf course. At the end was a pretty bay and beach, but at dusk it felt distinctly chilly. The beach looked out to the Lavezzi archipeligo and Sardinia across the strait. The water her is very dangerous with odd tides, nasty shifting wind and strong currents. A troop ship sunk here en route to the Crimea with over 770 French troops drowned, perhaps the worst shipping disaster the Mediterranean has known.
We were awake before seven and quickly packed up the tent and drove off the site. We stopped at the shops just outside and bought some 'pain au raisin'. Lynn was most unhappy with hers as she thought it was more like a cake.
From the campsite, we joined the N196, the main road heading south down the middle of the island heading towards Bonifacio. The road was fairly busy and immediately started climbing up into the mountains. Today, there seemed to be road-works in just about every village we passed through, the first being Suarella. Fortunately, the road had overtaking lanes on the uphill stretches so it wasn't too bad a trip to the top of the Col de St-Georges at 747M.
From here the road headed back down to the Taravo river valley before climbing again through Petreto-Bicchisano and on to the Col de Celaccia at 582M. From here, it was all downhill to the coastal town of Propriano which we didn't stop at.
Continuing over another pass, Col de Sta. Guilla at 80M we then followed the Rizzanese river for a while before the climb up to Sartene high up in the hills. Sartene is famous locally for its wine.
The road headed south through the mountains until it got down to the Gulf of Roccapina where we got views over the sea again before heading back inland through Pianottoli-Caldarello and back to the coast.
We'd noticed that although it was very sunny, the wind was getting up and we really noticed it when we stopped for a brief walk near Tonnara. The bay was beautiful, but the wind was very strong and quite cool.
We bypassed Bonifacio on the D60 and continued until it turned right and became the D58. Not far down here we found a campsite. We had a wander around, and then after asking, set up the tent on a pitch under some trees but with a view. We had great trouble getting any pegs in, and the campsite then told us the pitch was built on aa concrete slab! We moved one site over and successfully erected the tent.
Having done this, it was clearly lunchtime, so we headed into the port at Bonifacio. By now the wind was really strong and quite unpleasant, but we managed to find a restaurant where we could sit outside out of the wind. For a change, we had their 'special' which was cheeseburger in a panini with a glass of Heinekin!
We had a brief wander around and ate an icecream before returning to the campsite. We sat outside for a while, but it was very windy, in the sun it was warm enough, but out of the sun in the wind it felt quite chilly.
After dinner, we drove down to the coast to see if we could see any evening birdlife. We followed a very small road described as dangerous in the Rough Guide, towards a lighthouse on Capo Pertusato. The road went between some fortifications and we stopped in an old French fort which was derelict. We had a wander around but no birds to be seen. We carried on to the lighthouse then turned back into town.
Next, we followed the signs to Plage de Piantarella, this road had some very nice houses and also an exclusive golf course. At the end was a pretty bay and beach, but at dusk it felt distinctly chilly. The beach looked out to the Lavezzi archipeligo and Sardinia across the strait. The water her is very dangerous with odd tides, nasty shifting wind and strong currents. A troop ship sunk here en route to the Crimea with over 770 French troops drowned, perhaps the worst shipping disaster the Mediterranean has known.
Secret Operations on the Coast
Monday 12 May
We had a bit of a lie in and then got moving around 8-o-clock. I went and bought bread from the shop just outside the campsite and we had breakfast sitting outside again.
After breakfast, we went exploring the local area. We briefly rejoined the main road, the N196 before turning off near Pisciatello onto the D302. This road, marked as a scenic route, wound its way through scrub covered hills to a small pass, the Col de Bellevalle at 465M. The road then squiggled its way all the way down to a small river and then back to the village of Bisinao before climbing up to another pass, the Col de Aja Bastiano at 600M. From here, the road was all downhill following the river Taravo down to the coast near Propriano.
The route we took from here, followed the coast back towards Porticcio. Firstly, we joined the D155 along a narrow road and then turned off down the D155a to a pretty bay at Plage de Cupabia. It was rather windy here, but it was clearly a rather nice place to spent some time on a beach. There was a memorial to a team of Frenchmen caught during WW2 trying to aid the allies.
[Internet research tells me that on 6th Feb 1943, a Royal Navy submarine, HMS Saracen P247 under the command of Lt M G R Lumby, landed 3 men, Guy Verstraete (aka Vlaminck aka Vernuge), a Belgian Naval officer and wireless operator for this mission, Antoine Colonna d'Istria and Charles Simon Andrei, at a beach near Scogliu Biancu, Cupabia Bay. Verstraete and Andrei were arrested on 12 Apr 1942 and executed on 06 July 1942. Two other people accused of assisting were deported to a prison in Italy where they were killed in a air-raid in 1944.]
After that, we rejoined the D155 and continued following the coast. There were some great views of the coast as we climbed up over headlands but nowhere to stop for a coffee which was a shame. Finally, we ended up back at Porticcio where we did manage to get a drink!
After briefly returning to the campsite, we decided to go into Ajaccio which is the current Capitol of Corsica. It is quiet a large town, perhaps a city. We managed to negotiate the traffic and some very narrow streets before finding a parking place right down by the marina. We walked up into the old town and found a cafe for lunch on Place Foch, the centre of the old town.
After lunch we had a short walk around the marina before heading to Decathalon for a look around and on to a large Carrefour where we bought an electric coolbox that runs on mains and also car battery. It will save trying to get the freezer blocks refrozen daily.
Back on the campsite we sat around and relaxed and wandered around the site bird watching in the evening.
We had a bit of a lie in and then got moving around 8-o-clock. I went and bought bread from the shop just outside the campsite and we had breakfast sitting outside again.
After breakfast, we went exploring the local area. We briefly rejoined the main road, the N196 before turning off near Pisciatello onto the D302. This road, marked as a scenic route, wound its way through scrub covered hills to a small pass, the Col de Bellevalle at 465M. The road then squiggled its way all the way down to a small river and then back to the village of Bisinao before climbing up to another pass, the Col de Aja Bastiano at 600M. From here, the road was all downhill following the river Taravo down to the coast near Propriano.
The route we took from here, followed the coast back towards Porticcio. Firstly, we joined the D155 along a narrow road and then turned off down the D155a to a pretty bay at Plage de Cupabia. It was rather windy here, but it was clearly a rather nice place to spent some time on a beach. There was a memorial to a team of Frenchmen caught during WW2 trying to aid the allies.
[Internet research tells me that on 6th Feb 1943, a Royal Navy submarine, HMS Saracen P247 under the command of Lt M G R Lumby, landed 3 men, Guy Verstraete (aka Vlaminck aka Vernuge), a Belgian Naval officer and wireless operator for this mission, Antoine Colonna d'Istria and Charles Simon Andrei, at a beach near Scogliu Biancu, Cupabia Bay. Verstraete and Andrei were arrested on 12 Apr 1942 and executed on 06 July 1942. Two other people accused of assisting were deported to a prison in Italy where they were killed in a air-raid in 1944.]
After that, we rejoined the D155 and continued following the coast. There were some great views of the coast as we climbed up over headlands but nowhere to stop for a coffee which was a shame. Finally, we ended up back at Porticcio where we did manage to get a drink!
After briefly returning to the campsite, we decided to go into Ajaccio which is the current Capitol of Corsica. It is quiet a large town, perhaps a city. We managed to negotiate the traffic and some very narrow streets before finding a parking place right down by the marina. We walked up into the old town and found a cafe for lunch on Place Foch, the centre of the old town.
After lunch we had a short walk around the marina before heading to Decathalon for a look around and on to a large Carrefour where we bought an electric coolbox that runs on mains and also car battery. It will save trying to get the freezer blocks refrozen daily.
Back on the campsite we sat around and relaxed and wandered around the site bird watching in the evening.
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